Swaying's design creates knitted textures by hand.

Liu Wen walks the runway for Balenciaga's 2024 Fall/Winter Paris Fashion Week.

2024 Fall/Winter Paris Men's Fashion Week Herm¨¨s collection.

OSMOS's 2024 Spring/Summer design uses a variety of yarn craftsmanship explorations and fabric innovations.

In recent years, the fashion industry has been constantly on the rise in a sustainable upsurge, with the main focus on trying to interpret ESG (ESG is the abbreviation for environment, society and corporate governance) in a diversified way from the perspectives of design, application, technology and humanities. The industry revealed that the sustainable and diversified development direction allows young designers around the world to show new creative power, which can not only bring unique aesthetic concepts, but also bring more explorations of the integration of environmental protection, art and life to the consumer market.

Popular interpretation:

"Remake" reshapes

Opens up new ideas for emotional resonance

"The return of fashion design to practical wear is already the mainstream, and this year's sustainability is another expression of daily life. Among them, the re-creation of recycling has opened up new ideas for high-end fashion." Chen Xi, international buyer director, told reporters that taking luxury brands' high-end fashion as an example, designers began to practice a "remake" reshape design concept that is not limited to specific occasions and conforms to daily real dressing habits based on the emotional resonance of the wearer.

Chen Xi said: "Remake means to remake, that is, to remake something, which is common in the fields of music and movies, and has become increasingly popular in the field of clothing in recent years. Thanks to this, Vintage has become one of the inspirations for the popularity of new products."

How to express "remake" concretely? The reporter noticed that the exquisite clothing production technology has become the essence of "remake" reshape design. For example, in the Balenciaga 2024 summer show, the evening dresses ranged from round-hem dresses in vintage floral prints to dresses made from items collected from vintage stores across Europe and America through upcycling, all of which were manifestations of the design team's practice of sustainable innovation.

Another example is the new season works of Maion Margiela, which has always appeared in a pioneering manner, including evening dresses made of T-shirts and bras, lampshade-shaped hats with iron wire as the skeleton and wrapped with cloth strips or strips of plastic film, etc. Through exquisite hand-made production, a "rough" blank space is created, which makes people feel interesting and full of stories.

The sustainable trend in fashion design has extended to the degradation process of different items and even the show design.

"All the decorative plants in the Herm¨¨s fashion show this season were replanted back to nature after the show, realizing true recycling." Designer Zhang Dayou said. Zhang Dayou told reporters that the designer brand invested by Kering Group, the parent company of Gucci, demonstrated the biodegradable process of waterless dyeing printed collar shirts. "The concept of remake not only includes the remaking in the sense of design, but also the recyclability of fabrics and processes, which can achieve a relatively complete closed loop."

Local innovation:

Deconstructing new fabrics, handmade stitch by stitch

"The 2024 Spring and Summer Shanghai Fashion Week ended with StellaMccartney as the finale, but the most eye-catching protagonist of the entire fashion week was actually among the young Chinese designers." Shi Ru, one of the top ten designers in Guangdong, said that this group of young Chinese fashion design forces will fully present the sustainable craze, not only in the bold use of fabrics, but also in the profound discussion of art and the environment under the avant-garde aesthetics.

Taking the warm handmade creation as an example, Shi Ru believes that the new season design of swaying well uses the original texture of knitting to show a more modern aesthetic gradient trace, which is a change process from rough to exquisite.

"What we can perceive is not only the visual impact of the pattern, but also the delicate touch of the fabric close to the skin. It is actually completed by fingers stitch by stitch and continuous polishing." In Shi Ru's view, this is a very subtle moment of emotional burst between people and fashion.

Another example is the new season of OSMOS's iteration of fabric innovation and craftsmanship, using a variety of yarns to weave different textures and light and transparent knitwear, exuding the original natural beauty and relaxation between the layers.

The reporter also noticed that in the XUZHI2024 spring and summer series of designer Chen Xuzhi, in his series of works paying tribute to artists, "tassels" as a recyclable popular element were used to the extreme for the first time-metal tassels, silk tassels, chiffon tassels, feather tassels, and wax rope and leather rope tassels, depicting a new scene of life under the collision of various materials-instant beauty, blooming like fireworks. "Handmade is the important background of these sustainable fashions. The intervention of technology is to make the fabrics better serve the design and the wearer." Shi Ru said.

Observation:

In the future, sustainable fashion

will be deeply connected with the city

The sustainable development of the fashion industry has become a global consensus. Industry analysts revealed that in the future, the fashion industry will be deeply "bound" with the city in a more diverse and sustainable form. For example, fashion weeks in many cities are currently using renewable energy to provide electricity for events, and will also promote sustainable transportation options for participants. Some shows will no longer use plastic products such as plastic bags or plastic bottles.

This year is even more special for the fashion industry. The holding of the 2024 Summer Olympics has made Paris, France the focus of world attention. Five years ago, during the Paris Fall/Winter Fashion Week in 2019, the "ParisGoodFashion" project was announced to make Paris a sustainable fashion capital in 2024. The industry expects that this year's Summer Olympics will not only test the fashion "report card" of the city of Paris, but also provide a new standard and innovative ideas for sustainable development in the future of the fashion industry.

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