When we arrived in Varanasi at the end of September, the sun was blinding. The white ground is crowded with chattering touchers and TUTU(three-wheeled motorcycle) drivers, and the eastern din is like entering a thousand and one Nights dream. Varanasi is a famous historic city. It is located in southeastern Uttar Pradesh, India, on the left bank of the middle crescent meander of the Ganges River. The same scenes can be felt in Delhi and Agra, but I know an alternate reality awaits me in this city.

The old walls of the alleys and the threshold corridors of the houses are painted with auspicious designs to pay homage to the gods

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Varanasi is a famous historical city. It is located in the southeastern state of Uttar Pradesh, India, on the left bank of the middle crescent-shaped meander of the Ganges River. When it arrived in Varanasi in late September, the sun was blinding. The white ground is crowded with chattering touchers and TUTU(three-wheeled motorcycle) drivers, and the eastern din is like entering a thousand and one Nights dream. Delhi and Agra offer similar scenes, but I know a different, improbable reality awaits me in this city.

A TUTU ride through the rambling signs in Hindi and English could easily lead us astray when the hotel we were looking for was within easy reach. Finally, exhausted, we stood at the gate of Kumiko's House. Kumiko is the name of a Japanese woman who fell hopelessly in love with Varanasi on her first visit, married an artistically talented local, bought a house on the Ganges and opened a hostel. Now with a second branch of Kumiko House, the once young Kumiko is over 60, chubby, in a simple cotton dress and with a trademark smile. We stayed not far from the old shop at DasaswamedhGhat, the Ganges' most lively main shrine. There was no hot water for 150 rupees a night, and I wondered if the cold tap water had come straight from the Ganges. The place could be described as humble, with its loud gas changers taking up almost a third of the room, and with so many people moving in without ever looking back, I was surprisingly fond of it. The flowery fabric curtains that fly in the hallway remind me of the quaint old woman's home in "The Hawaiian Boy." The blue door with the Shiva statue and the indigo walls filled with beautiful graffiti give off a different flair. Rhesus monkeys roam the open-air balconies and rooftops in enough abundance to make Hanuman, the monkey god, form an army of monkeys.

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