Following sports brands and outdoor clothing brands, the latest survey from the international environmental protection organization Greenpeace International (hereinafter referred to as Greenpeace) found that 20 global fashion brands used toxic and hazardous substances in the production process. These 20 brands include international brands such as Armani, Victoria's Secret, Calvin Klein, as well as domestic brands such as Vancl. The toxic substances detected involved nonylphenol polyoxyethylene ether, phthalates and carcinogenic aromatic amines released by azo dyes.

The survey shows that toxic and hazardous substances can be released at any stage of the life cycle and eventually enter rivers, lakes and seas. "With the rise of "fast fashion", a large number of clothes are produced and sold, and the impact on the environment has been magnified, especially the pollution caused by toxic and hazardous substances. ¡±

In its Global Fashion Brand Toxic Residue Survey, Greenpeace called on major clothing companies to make credible ¡°detoxification¡± commitments, including eliminating all toxic and hazardous substances in their global supply chains and all products by January 1, 2020.

20 Brands ¡°Contain Toxic¡±

Compared to the 2011 investigation that revealed that clothing suppliers of brands such as adidas and Nike used and discharged toxic and hazardous substances, Greenpeace said this investigation was ¡°regrettable¡± because ¡°more toxic and hazardous substances were found in this investigation. ¡±

During April 2012, Greenpeace purchased 141 clothing samples in 29 countries (regions) around the world (these 141 samples were produced in 18 different countries, including various styles of men's, women's and children's clothing).

Among the 141 samples, high concentrations of toxic and harmful substances - phthalates were detected in 4 samples, and carcinogenic aromatic amines released from the use of azo dyes were detected in 2 samples. The environmental hormone nonylphenol polyoxyethylene ether was detected in 89 samples, or nearly two-thirds of the samples. In addition, a variety of different types of potentially harmful industrial chemicals were detected in most samples.

Greenpeace said, "As toxic and harmful substances, any use of nonylphenol polyoxyethylene ether, phthalates, or azo dyes that release carcinogenic aromatic amines should not be allowed. "

It is reported that the 20 brands tested include: Armani, Benetton, Blazek, C&A, Calvin Klein, Diesel, Esprit, Gap, H&M, Jack&Jones, Levi"s, Mango, Marks&Spencer, Only, Tommy Hil-figer, Vancl, Veromoda, Victoria"s Secret, Zara, etc.

The above survey results show that "all brands in this study have one or more products detected with nonylphenol polyoxyethylene ether. ¡±

In this survey, there were 12 samples with nonylphenol polyoxyethylene ether residues above 1000ppm, involving brands including C&A, Mango, Levi¡±s, Calvin Klein, Zara, Jack&Jones and Marks&Spencer.

Greenpeace data shows that as a toxic and hazardous substance, nonylphenol polyoxyethylene ether will degrade in the environment into more toxic, persistent and bioaccumulative nonylphenol. Nonylphenol is not only toxic, persistent and bioaccumulative, but also an environmental hormone and can be accumulated through the food chain and amplified step by step.

Greenpeace said, "Any use of nonylphenol polyoxyethylene ether is unacceptable." It is reported that there have been restrictions on nonylphenol polyoxyethylene ether in industry for nearly 20 years. Although there are currently no regulations restricting the sale of products with residues of nonylphenol polyoxyethylene ether, the EU is formulating relevant regulations. Greenpeace also said that there is no scientific research to prove that the content of nonylphenol polyoxyethylene ether detected in all clothing samples this time will pose a direct risk to the health of the wearer.

Greenpeace tested 31 clothing samples with plastisol (printed with patterns, logos or text). It was found that phthalates were detected in all 31 samples with plastisol printing. High concentrations of phthalates were detected in 4 of the samples, with the highest reaching 37.6% (mass fraction).

The test results showed that the phthalates detected in these 4 samples had high contents of DEHP, DINP and BBP. DEHP and BBP are recognized as toxic and hazardous substances with reproductive toxicity. They are listed as substances of high concern by the EU REACH regulations and have set a phase-out date. DINP is also toxic at high doses and has a certain endocrine disrupting effect.

Carcinogenic aromatic amines released by azo dyes were detected in two samples of Zara. Greenpeace said, "Although the concentration is below the regulatory limit in the country of sale, it is still difficult to accept the detection of carcinogens on clothing."

It is reported that aromatic amines are used to produce azo dyes, but then when the dyes decompose, the aromatic amines will be released. The aromatic amine detected this time, o-dianisidine, is a carcinogen and may also be carcinogenic to humans. In the European Union and China, there are relevant laws and regulations to restrict the residues of azo dyes that can volatilize carcinogenic aromatic amines in textiles that come into direct contact with the skin.

Greenpeace also stated in the investigation report, "Not all aromatic amines released from azo dyes are carcinogenic."

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